Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with locals and tourists equally swearing by its superb cuisine.
A Global Honor
In a recent announcement, Unesco designated it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a select group of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it enters a international community of more than four hundred metropolises across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "demonstrates its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and lively food ecosystem," as noted by a official from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of seventy urban centers internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this historic city comes as no surprise to its locals or avid food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, bustling, and eclectic city – the capital of India's most populous state – is at last in the limelight for what has perennially characterized its essence: an immense love for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a continued conversation from morning until night in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, refined, and taken to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of food experimentation, merging Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was invented to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just showcases local ingredients but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on every corner, there are little shops and stalls – lesser-known treasures that are wildly favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, served in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a no-frills joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and complicated. The artisan whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but say that their younger generation are reluctant to learn the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will motivate more people globally to explore these narratives and experience the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
